Showing posts with label Body-Positive movement. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Body-Positive movement. Show all posts

Thursday, 28 February 2019

FINAL OUTCOME




Throughout the report I've used the Mary Katrantzou floral pattern as a recuring motif from their collaboration in 2018.

The colours used are also the main colours the brand usually uses for different purposes:

https://www.colourlovers.com/palette/530/victorias_secret

Typeface choices:

Eskapade regular for the main body
Trajan Pro  (family) 3 for the contents page- similar to what VS uses for their logo
DK Mandarin Whispers for the titles because it resembles the playful font that the brand uses from time to time ( "CRUSH" example)


                                                   Example of fonts used by the brand:

Saturday, 9 February 2019

PROPOSED BRAND MOODBOARDS


The moodboard above illustrates the proposed social media, influencer marketing and marketing mix for Victoria's Secret. It highlights 4 main aspects:
1. Female empowerment
2. Keeping up by investing in technology 
3. Brand collaborations 
4. Keep current aesthetic 

See "proposed strategy/recommendations" post for further information.





This second moodboard presents their proposed demographics. A more diverse consumer (plus-size, pregnant women etc.) that cares about femininity and how women are perceived in today's society. Empowering women, making them feel important, creating a sense of sorority and a welcoming environment will result in making the VS fantasy available everywhere and most important for everyone.






The third moodboard shows the future brand positioning and competitors based on the new strategy.
Savage x Fenty, Misguided, Boux Avenue and Ann Summers are some of the brands Victoria's Secret might have to face if they decide to embark on the body-positive and diverse wagon. Every woman is beautiful and special in her own way. Even though many lingerie brands are following the body-diversity trend, Victoria's Secret will still have the ability to differentiate themselves based on designs and overall brand aesthetic.

Sunday, 3 February 2019

PROPOSED STRATEGY/RECOMMENDATIONS


1. Female empowerment
In 2018 the brand’s CMO, Ed Razek tried to incorporate trending movements like feminism, body positivity and diversity into their world-famous annual fashion show, but the results were not what people expected and proved how out of step the brand is with current consumer perceptions of inclusiveness and body positivity. As US author Jill Filipovic opinionated in 2016, "putting conventionally attractive women onstage — even if those women are more racially diverse than in past years — and using them as physical representations of sex in order to sell bras isn't exactly a manifestation of the feminist dream". (Manavis, 2018). Recent remarks of the brand’s CMO in an interview with Vogue also stirred a lot of online backlash and reinforced the Victoria’s Secret idea of female beauty: "Does the brand think about diversity? Yes. Do we offer larger sizes? Yes," he said. "Shouldn't you have transsexuals in the show? No. No, I don't think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy"…We attempted to do a television special for plus-sizes [in 2000]. No one had any interest in it, still don’t."
“In Western society, women feel tremendous pressure to be thin. Girls often start dieting as young as 10 years old and this preoccupation with weight and body shape is evident across the life span (Pliner, Chaiken, & Flett, 1990)” (Strahan, Lafrance, Wilson, Ethier, Spencer, Zanna, 2007)
In this context, it is to believe that an approach more in-touch with current times and consumer demand would be to create a more diverse and welcoming brand. As we live in a time when female empowerment is a crucial part of possibly any woman’s life, it is almost imperative that a lingerie brand which has such an intimate relationship with its customers, makes any woman feel good and confident in her own skin.
” The first presidential primary election many of us remember was in 2008, when Hillary Clinton, a woman, took on Barack Obama, an African-American man. For us, it has seemed that anything is possible. (Masback, 2016)
Placing female empowerment at the core of the business would be more in line with what consumer expect from brands with great influence and impact on young girls’ idea of female beauty. Instead of casting only models that fit into certain measurements, the brand could feature diverse models on the catwalk, in their campaigns and as their angels, while keeping alive the promised fantasy by using the same stylish, fashionable and feminine vibe customers are used to and love about Victoria’s Secret.
Instead of months of preparations to fit into a specific “mould” by making the girls lose weight and even train twice a day, the team could hire professional nutritionists and trainers that will make the models look the “best” version of themselves, highlighting the importance of being healthy, both physically and mentally.
These models should be chosen based on their personality, highlighting the idea that beauty comes from within and any girl has the potential of being a part of the fantasy they want to portray. In order to illustrate that the brand places their customer at the heart of the business, Victoria’s Secret could organise an annual “digital tombola”. One lucky customer should have the chance of experiencing the world of Victoria at its fullest, on the catwalk. In order to take part in the contest, customers would have to create an account on the brand’s website and make a purchase of at least $50. If they would like to buy in store, the same rules apply, but a special receipt code will have to be registered on the website. The more they buy, the greater the chances of winning and meeting the Victoria’s Secret angels before the show and at the after party. If customers don’t have an account yet, the software will ask for registration so that the team in charge will be able to contact the winner. Now if people will participate and give their details it will profit the business a great deal as marketing teams will have the chance to match certain items with an identity. Hence they will establish consumer preference trends and with the customer’s consent even send emails with customised offers based on these preferences. The brand already had a similar contest for this year’s show (2018), but for employees only, based on the highest sales performance, they had the chance to see the show. (Source: LinkedIn)
On the same previous note about feminism implementation, a good PR movement would be to add real feminists to their band ambassadors (“angels”) instead of using supermodels. Influential voices young consumers are looking up to like Sonny Turner(285k), Paloma Elsesser(195k), Hari Nef(357k), Barbie Ferreira(483k), Lauren Wasser(107k), Lulu Bonfils(60.2k), Mariah Idrissi(886.3k), Ashley Graham(8M), Adwoa Aboah(744k) would attract a lot of attention and could benefit the brand’s public image. These models represent more than just a pretty face in the eye of consumers, they stand for something and aim to send the right message out there.
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2. Sustainability
From our research and other lingerie brands’ approach to marketing, identity, logistics and supply chain, two key-elements that younger Generations of consumers (younger Millennials and older Gen Zedders) value the most in a brand are transparency and authenticity (Fromm, 2017 & Wissink as an interviewee). That is one main reason why VS should concentrate their efforts around becoming more environmentally-friendly and introduce better systems of tracing cotton in their supply chain and learn about their female employees in developing countries where they outsource garment production, making sure they have a fair wage and working conditions.
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3. Technology
On a different note, investing in technology would be one of my strongest recommendations for Victoria’s Secret. For this module, a survey was created and 51 women (64% between 16-25 and 30% 26-35) took part. When asked if they would be willing to use a 3-D body scanner to find their perfect bra size, 40% said YES and 44% ticked the ABSOLUTELY YES box.  3-D body scanning for custom sizes would open a new target market, considering that the brand currently sells bras from 32A to 38F. Start Today Co Ltd, now Zozo Inc., is a Japanese clothes-selling website, which already implemented an innovative technology called “the Zozosuit”, a polka-dot bodysuit, aimed at providing customers with bespoke services for finding the perfect fit. From researching into the product, the suit is relatively easy to use. Once the customer is wearing it, a mobile app software will measure the distance between the white dots on the “black canvas” (the suit) and will tell you the exact body measurements. After only a few months since they launched the technology, the company claims it received orders worth 15.4 billion yen from Zozosuit users and collected so much data they don’t need to use the suit anymore (Nakamura, 2018). Similar measuring services could be available in store or in the comfort of the user’s own home. Once the measurements will be linked with an account, the customer will be able to order anything online: lingerie, nightwear, loungewear and sportswear, while also having the possibility of ordering a custom-fit if the software cannot match the measurements with an existing available size. In order to put this customisation service into practice, they could open a special factory with seamstresses dedicated to this part of the business.
Because the “Zozosuit” sensor technology is already patented, VS could create a similar technology and create a pink suit with white stripes and a scanner app that could read how the stripes are displayed and create a virtual mould of the body.
Easing the online shopping process and showing consumers Victoria’s Secret is a brand that knows them and their needs will strengthen the link between the brand and its customers.
In industries like retail, where the bridge between online and offline is often manifested through consumer smartphones, AR can significantly benefit businesses. (Bloom, 2017). Augmented reality is something fashion companies are already investing into. E-commerce giant Amazon.com already bought Body Labs, a 3-D body-scanning start-up company, which allows customers to create true-to-life 3D avatars in order to virtually try clothes on (Du, Takahashi & Alpeyev, 2018).  Another company that invested in AR in 2017 is Gap Inc. In collaboration with Google and San Francisco-based start-up Avametric, the brand launched a “DressingRoom” app for consumers to see how clothes will fit them by showing a 3D mannequin based on their measurements (Alvarez, 2017).
Virtual Mirrors in changing rooms or in changing “boots” also have a huge potential for retailers and could boost both in-store and online sales. Eliminating all the fuss and exhaustion about trying on different sizes and colours in store would be a big step forward in improving customer experience. Virtual changing boots which carry no stock would be time-saving for consumers and will eliminate the resource-demanding task of inventory managing, while boosting the e-commerce side of a business. Victoria’s Secret could invest in such technologies in order to expand their international business without using financial resources to open Brick-and-mortar stores. If the consumer used the 3-D body-measurement technology he could then enter his account details and the software would know the exact measurements and could fit the items on his body. “The pink booths” could look like telephone booths that can only be closed from the inside and should be placed in areas of interest with a high concentration of younger demographics like university campuses. Implementation of an initial trial stage would be necessary in order to see how consumers react and expect the technology to work like. During this test-phase PINK campus reps could promote the new technology and invite students to test it. Because this will be a promotional campaign, a few striped suits in different size should be available for free to anyone who wants to have the PINK booth experience. After the promotional campaign is over, if anyone who wants to use a PINK booth should buy it either online or in-store.
Generation Z holds the largest number of tech-savvy consumers and is the most likely generation that would completely embrace and accept technology into their lives. “Like Millennials, Pivotals operate in a market guided by technological advancements and a social landscape spanning the physical and digital worlds” (Fromm & Read, 2018).
In 2014, Japanese popular fashion, home and lifestyle retailer, Urban Research, already launched a trial pop-up store (Japanconsuming, 2018) and popular fast-fashion brand Topshop partnered with AR Door to bring the AR experience to their Moscow store by using Kinect for the virtual fitting rooms (Sheehan, 2018).
The brand could make use of this technology for all of their lingerie and apparel lines, as well as for the beauty products.
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4. Collaborations
As a Mintel report about consumer perceptions on lingerie brands shows, people see Victoria’s Secret as trend-setting and fashionable compared to other lingerie specialists.
Past collaborations have proven to be very successful and brought the brand great revenue. In 2017 Victoria’s Secret teamed up with Balmain and had creative director Olivier Rousteing helping the VS team design custom runway looks and a retail collection available both in-store and online, which subsequently sold out really fast. Hence, other collaborations with fashion brands like OFF-White for a relaxed, streetwear inspired collection of underwear and apparel would suit the preferences of younger demographics. Street style is becoming increasingly important in today’s youth culture
In addition, after talking to Victoria’s Secret customers we found that many of them only buy beauty products as they consider other items to be over-priced. Collaborating with established or online famous makeup artists for a dedicated Victoria’s Secret makeup line should also be highly appreciated by their customers.


Making changes while keeping the current aesthetic (feminine, sexy, stylish) and colour-scheme is important as we do not intend to alienate the current consumer that enjoys the designs and overall visual identity of the brand. Primary research revealed that people associate the brand with the colours they use (pink) and identify it as trend-setting and fashion-focused (Mintel, 2018).



References:


Sheehan, A. (2018, Feb 21). How These Retailers Use Augmented Reality to Enhance the Customer Experience. Retrieved from: https://www.shopify.com/retail/how-these-retailers-are-using-augmented-reality-to-enhance-the-customer-experience
Japanconsuming (2014, July 7, 12:00). In Japan, Urban Research Experiments with Virtual Changing Booths. Retrieved from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-tech/japan-urban-research-experiments-virtual-changing-booths
Alvarez, E. (2017, Jan 30). Gap envisions a future with augmented-reality 'dressing rooms'. Retrieved from: https://www.engadget.com/2017/01/30/gap-augmented-reality-dressing-rooms/)
Du, L., Takahashi M. & Alpeyev P. (2018, July 4, 6:49 AM GMT+1). Top Japan Fashion Site Bets Big on Private Brand, Body Scanning. Retrieved from: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-07-04/top-japan-fashion-site-bets-big-on-private-brand-body-scanning
Bloom, A. (2017, Nov 8, 05:30). Op-Ed | Why Augmented Reality Changes Everything. Retrieved from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-why-augmented-reality-changes-everything
Nakamura Y. (2018, Nov 1, 12:20 AM GMT). Zozo Ditches Body-Measuring Suit, Saying No Longer Needed. Retrieved from: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-10-31/zozo-ditches-body-measuring-suit-saying-it-s-no-longer-needed
Fromm J. (2018, Jan 10, 11:00am). How Much Financial Influence Does Gen Z Have?. Retrieved from:  https://www.forbes.com/sites/jefffromm/2018/01/10/what-you-need-to-know-about-the-financial-impact-of-gen-z-influence/#226cbe6656fc
Fromm J. (2017, Dec 13, 11:00am). Why Label Transparency Matters When It Comes To Millennial Brand Loyalty. Retrieved from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/jefffromm/2017/12/13/why-label-transparency-matters-when-it-comes-to-millennial-brand-loyalty/#4ddf289e3dac
Fromm J. & Read A. (2018). Marketing to Gen Z: the rules for reaching this vast, and very different, generation of influencers. Published by AMACOM
Masback G. (2016). The voice of gen z: Understanding the attitudes & attributes of America’s next “greatest generation”. CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform
Manavis S. (2018, Nov 16). Why Victoria’s Secret is struggling to be “woke”; Vol. 147 Issue 5445, p18-19. Source: New Statesman

Strahan E. J., Lafrance A., Wilson A. E., Ethier N. (Wilfrid Laurier University); Spencer S. J., Zanna M. P. (University of Waterloo) (2007, Aug 14). Victoria’s Dirty Secret: How Sociocultural Norms Influence Adolescent Girls and Women. 


FOCUS GROUP INTERVIEWS

1.Have you ever heard about Victoria’s Secret? 2.Do you like the brand? What are your thoughts about their current aesthetic? 3.Do you think VS angels are good role models for younger girls? 4.Why do you think VS has been such a successful brand so far? 5.What do you think about their fashion show? 6.If you could change something about the brand, what would your recommendation be? 7.Where do you usually shop for underwear or lingerie? And why do you choose this place/brand over another? 8.Do you prefer in-store or online shopping for lingerie and why? 9.What bra style do you prefer? Push-up or comfortable/sport bras? 10.Do you believe that all lingerie brands should be inclusive?





Ilinca Barbato, 23 (Participant 1)

1.Yes
2. I am not sure if I like the brand itself or fantasy that was created around it. I am really not up to date with their current aesthetic, but I find the underwear in general very creative and colorful. Of course their provocative cuts and shapes presented on the runway are what we all think about when asked about VS
3. Up to o point yes. On one hand they are good example of ambition and hard work, proving that one can achieve his dreams when the goal is clearly set. On the other hand these models can have a very bad influence on young, fragile girls. Looking up to someone sized 90-60-90, known only for her beautiful hair, glowy skin and perfect long legs can damage a young girl identity, creating a false beauty ideal. When looks are so highly promoted, other values fall in the background, leading to a superficial society, obsessed with their image only. The one who doesn't "fit the standard" are marginalized or do it to themselves alone, can create depression and bad self esteem
4. Because it promotes an ideal and creates a dream. It allows the normal person to feel exclusive and special and this it what all of us wish for.

5. The fashion shows are the reason I've heard about VS. I only watch these for the entertainment and not really for the designs.
6. Nowadays, a lot of women fell that the Victoria’s Secret “paradise” is actually a world of exclusivity where the idea of female beauty and sexiness is narrow: white, slim and 6ft tall. My recommendation would be to include +size models, change the message they deliver, become more aware about the influence and power they have on young girl, include their basic pieces in the fashion shows
7. Intimissimi maybe or HM. Why? Good price-quality ratio, very convenient, you can find them in every mall
8. In store shopping because I can try on the bras and touch the fabrics.
9. Comfortable ones for every day and push up for special occasions.
10. No, not really. Especially if you are positioning yourself as a high value high class exclusive brand as VS does. It cannot target all market groups since they don t all belong to the wealthy ones.



Ioana Alexanra Oniga, 23 (Participant 2)


1.Yes 2.I have mixed feelings about the brand – on one side their lingerie collections were never disappointing while on the other side I do not particulary agree with the fact that they recruited models like Kendall Jenner only for the sake of advertising. Regarding the aesthetic 3.No I do not because some teenagers are even willing to put their health at risk by starving themselves just because they feel ugly of fat compared to the VS Angels and believe that every woman should look like them - it is a well known fact that VS Models keep a strict diet months before their show because this is actually their job. 4. Because they brought something new to the table – they are unique because while other companies use celebrities for advertising (VS used this practice too especially in the last years) being a model at VS creates modeling careers. 5.The event draws the attention of million people from all over the world when it airs on TV. I think it was so successful because they are very customer focused , due to the marketing strategy and because of the innovation they brought to this field. 6.I would recommend a Fashion Show with women of all sizes in order to encourage anxious young girls to never feel shamed of their body. 7.I usually shop at H&M because they offer high quality lingerie at more than decent prices. 8.I prefer online shopping for lingerie strictly because the lack of patience for in store shopping. It suits me the best but I believe lingerie online shopping is risky especially if you do not know your size. 9. I prefer push up bras most of the days but when it comes to sports or feeling comfortable indoors I believe sport bras are the best choice. 10.I do believe that because in this particular industry diversity is a must as nowadays consumer preferences are very subjective and change a lot. In order to be successful you must be able to fulfill even their unknown needs.


Marie Elise Conte, 28 
(Participant 3)


1.Yes 2. I do, but recently I have seen in VS shops lingerie that looks basic, and I did not like it. For me, the whole idea of VS lingerie is to be sexy and glamorous. 3. Not necessarily, or at least not because they are VS models. 4. Good marketing, being associated with lux and beauty. 5. Spectacular. Exactly the way a fashion show should be. 6. Keep it classy and valuable. 7. Mostly Debenhams and HM. I like models from other brands, but from the brands I usually shop, I can get a bra that fits perfectly without trying it. 8. Online, for saving time and avoiding crowds. 9. I prefer lingerie that looks good, even if it's not the most comfortable. 10. Definitely.


Bianca Niculescu, 22 (Participant 4)

1. Yes 2. I like the quality of their products and the prices are good as well 3. Yes I do think VS angels are a good role model for younger generations 4. because of the variety of their products
5. very cool and glamorous. I love it 6.I wouldn't change a thing about VS. I like the brand just the way it is. 7. VS, malls or online
8. I do prefer both online or in store.( in store because whenever I have a bite of time off I prefer to relax doing shopping\ online because when my time is limited it is much easier and faster ) 9. push up and comfortable
10. I'm not sure. I think every brand should be entitled to choose their marketing strategy and the type of models best fit their identity.






Tuesday, 29 January 2019

CONSUMER NEEDS



Maslow Pyramid  


Esteem Needs/Blongingness

VS marketing strategy relies upon the fact that women still want to buy sexy lingerie to feel confident in their own skin / boost self-esteem, or to impress a man, but the balance is currently tilting towards more comfortable day-to-day lingerie, instead of wired, restraining bras. The trend for body diversity instead of body shaming is encouraging women to feel confident in their own skin and accept themselves for who they are no matter the appearance. The marketing and advertising strategies of Victoria’s Secret are currently prompting negative body image and eating disorders among young females. 
Understanding the emerging needs of consumers influenced the launch of the Bralette Collection in 2016 and their latest product, the Perfect Comfort Push-up, “a push-up bra comfortable enough to relax in”(Instagram caption). 
People need to feel they belong somewhere, that they are part of something bigger than themselves, that is why many choose to dedicate themselves to their work completely, other choose to dedicate their lives to family, others turns to religion/belief and are completely dedicated to god, but all of them without exception need to belong somewhere. Some brands try to create a sense of community, a fantastic universe people aspire to live in, or be part of. Victoria's Secret used this strategy for many years, shaping this fantasy, a world of femininity, sexiness and fun portrayed by models with a "perfect" body. These models are considered perfect (physically), but these perceptions are based on societal norms, they're not real. Any body can be sexy and attractive. If Marylin Monroe would have lived today... she would't have been considered one of the most beautiful women, she couldn't have been a model..



Source of image: https://www.simplypsychology.org/maslow.html

PRODUCT LIFE CYCLE


Product life cycle from a brand perspective: 
Since Victoria’s Secret changed their marketing strategy and started to appeal to women instead of men, success and recognition have been slowly increasing, alongside the brand’s revenue. Using different methods like their annual fashion show they managed to clearly position themselves in the minds of consumers and created a unique brand identity their customers resonate with. In the 80s supermodels took the world by storm and in the 90s the “heroin chic” look was the most desired look among young girls. Subsequently people got into the supermodel look, tall, slim, conventional beautiful facial features and Victoria’s Secret took advantage of this by using already well-known models in the fashion industry to slowly build their brand image. Based on this statement, the image of this particular girl type, the successful supermodel with the classical model body has been representing Victoria’s Secret for more than two decades now and is so strongly interconnected with the image of VS as a brand that one cannot talk about the one without mentioning the other. Their products are being successful because of the lifestyle their models portray. One could say that VS products are the same quality as Boux Avenue or any other affordable underwear and lingerie retailer, but it is their distinctive “supermodel” marketing formula that separates them from competitors.
The rise of Victoria’s Secret is correlated with the average consumer’s attitudes toward what female beauty means. If a few years ago everyone would have said that to them ultimate beauty translates as how Gisele Bündchen looked like, now many people’s answer would be Sleek Woods, who is far from conventional. Because society’s beauty standards are changing and the trend of making diversity conventional in fashion is gaining more and more spotlight, the Victoria’s Secret marketing formula is slowly entering the decline phase of a once utterly successful product.


Monday, 28 January 2019

MACRO-ECONOMIC ANALYSIS


As for January 2019, the UK currently has a stable economy, with an employment rate estimated at 75.8%, 0.5% higher than the year before, and the highest since 1971, while the unemployment rate is estimated at 4.0% (Office for national statistics). Moreover, the inflation rate was around 2.51% in 2018 and is estimated to decrease in 2019 to 2.17% (Statista, 2019). Based on this statistics the average spending per UK inhabitant is presently steady and should not affect Victoria’s Secret as a business.
PESTEL
P- -The UK leaving the EU (Brexit) can cause changes in trading and transportation laws(export/import subsidies, custom duties,  as the cotton used is grown overseas mainly in West Africa, transformed into cloth in India and final products are manufactured in Sri Lanka, Jordan, U.S.) Therefore, as Victoria’s Secret is a company that produces and sells physical goods it can be affected by changes in tax and manufacturing laws.
E  -The economic crisis that started in 2008 caused a shift in spending habits and people are being more careful about where their money goes. Many students don’t have part-time jobs and have to manage their budgets carefully so they might not have that much disposable money for shopping and have to choose between essentials and products they buy solely for pleasure. Low employment rates could also affect spending habits. Moreover, economical differences affect overseas wages for female workers.

S  -Celebrities like their angels endorse the brand on their personal social media accounts and recently they even used hyper-followed celebrities (the Kardashians) to create buzz before the 2018 show. People accuse the brand of body shaming and say they are refusing to embrace diversity. Using the same kind of models repeatedly can affect the society, namely younger girls that might base their self-worth on appearance. Society’s perception on healthy bodies is changing so the “supermodel” image VS is currently promoting will go out of trend. In addition, advertising and marketing campaigns are highly influenced by social factors: for example certain countries in the Middle East where VS sell their products have different religious beliefs and customs so VS has to keep in line with these traditions. Also, prospects about population growth in the future can expand the current customer demographic that VS wants to capture.

T-  -Social Media usage is an important technological factor because the way people consume fashion is changing. Other technological innovations might affect consumer buying behaviour: virtual changing rooms, 3d body-scanning for custom sizes, VR and AR shopping and trying clothes. Additionally, new production methods to replace human labour and improve production efficiency might affect the current way of producing their goods.

E-  -Even though Victoria’s Secret has a Fairtrade certification (lb.com), relatively recent investigations revealed that forced child labour is a reality and one that is very hard to uncover as cotton picked by children is the same as the one picked by adult labourers. Furthermore, recycling concerns about the current consumption model (cradle-to-grave) instead of cradle-to-cradle creates incredible amounts of waste: “PR reports, from the Environmental Protection Agency, that 15.1 million tons of textile waste was generated in 2013, of which 12.8 million tons were discarded.”(Hill, 2019). Incredible amounts of waste also link into the global plastic crisis and how synthetic fabrics are contributing to its worsening. Moreover, harmful cotton production “It takes more than 5,000 gallons of water to manufacture just a T-shirt and a pair of jeans” (Hill, 2019) is another environmental factor worth taking into consideration.


L-One important legal factor that came into the spotlight recently is that VS started to sell on the Chinese market so their beauty products have to be tested on animal before they reach the shelves. This can potentially affect sales as it might come into conflict with people’s beliefs and values. Also, immigration laws affected their models or staff that didn’t get a visa for the 2017 show that took place in Shanghai. In the UK, trademark laws to protect the logo and branding from 1:1 replicas or other brands that would want to imitate their marketing strategies are important. Other legal requirements that might affect VS are labelling laws. The brand needs to state where the garment was produced, the fabric it is made of and whether it is highly flammable.
-maybe packaging laws??



References:


Hill P. R. (2019?). Fashion Industry Waste Statistics. Retrieved from: https://edgexpo.com/fashion-industry-waste-statistics/

Office for national statistics

Statista

Tuesday, 22 January 2019

CURRENT BRAND MOODBOARDS



The moodboard above represents the current positioning of Victoria's Secret compared to its competitors in the UK. I have used 2 primary images that show the store layout and overall design for a VS shop and a Boux Avenue store, located in Meadowhall (shopping mall in Sheffield). The main difference between these 2, would be that VS uses mainly black and pink,  while BA store design is based on a all-white colour scheme. 
One other key difference between VS and other competitors is the use of diverse models. While retailers like SavagexFenty or Ann Summers constantly use plus-size and a wide range of models in their campaigns and on their SM pages, VS only uses girls with the same body type.
Moreover, while Ann Summers, SavagexFenty and VS still sell "sexiness" to their customers, other brands (Sloggi) emphasizes on comfort. 
Other differences between VS and their competitors is how VS uses "logo-obsession" to brand their merchandise in contrast to BS or AS.





This second moodboard represents their current consumer demographic. The pictures used represent a lifestyle and the things a typical VS customer would love or go mad for. They care about having branded clothing(everyone who wrote they shop at VS in my survey also answered yes when asked if brands are important to them). 
TRAITS: Outgoing, always wants to feel sexy and confident about herself, enjoys holidays, loves pink, likes anything instagramable, cherishes femininity and adores the Victorian aesthetic. 







My third moodboard represents their current social media, influencer marketing and marketing mix. The images used were cropped and adapted in photoshop to create a narative collage. They rely heavily on the image of their angels to promote the VS lifestyle any woman would dream of. They are successful, gorgeous young women or mothers that appeal to the public and have millions of fans on their own social media pages. In the VS universe as portrayed in the picture only a certain type of models are welcome, or the Kardashians, of course. 

To illustrate their aesthetic I've also added some products (from their instagram) and a picture with a VS shop in the background. 
Because I also wanted to refer to their world-famous fashion show, which is a main part of their unique marketing mix, the chosen models are all wearing VS runway outfits.

Monday, 14 January 2019

BRAND EQUITY


What is Brand Equity?
Brand equity is a marketing term that describes a brand’s value. That value is determined by consumer perception of and experiences with the brand. If people think highly of a brand, it has positive brand equity. When a brand consistently under-delivers and disappoints to the point where people recommend that others avoid it, it has negative brand equity.
Positive brand equity has value:
  • Companies can charge more for a product with a great deal of brand equity.
  • That equity can be transferred to line extensions – products related to the brand that include the brand name – so a business can make more money from the brand.
  • It can help boost a company’s stock price.

How Brand Equity Develops

Brand equity develops and grows as a result of a customer’s experiences with the brand. The process typically involves that customer or consumer’s natural relationship with the brand that unfolds following a predictable model:
  • Awareness – The brand is introduced to its target audience – often with advertising – in a way that gets it noticed.
  • Recognition – Customers become familiar with the brand and recognize it in a store or elsewhere. 
  • Trial – Now that they recognize the brand and know what it is or stands for, they try it. 
  • Preference – When the consumer has a good experience with the brand, it becomes the preferred choice. 
  • Loyalty – After a series of good brand experiences, users not only recommend it to others, it becomes the only one they will buy and use in that category. They think so highly of it that any product associated with the brand benefits from its positive glow.
Source: https://www.shopify.co.uk/encyclopedia/brand-equity




a set of brand assets and liabilities inked to a brand name and symbol which add to or subtract from the value provided by a product or service”( Aaker, 1991, p. 15)

Brand equity provides value for the firm by enhancing the efficiency and effectiveness of marketing programs and providing higher margins for products through premium pricing and decreased reliance on promotions. It also provides a platform for growth through brand extensions...” (Fashion Branding and Communication: Core Strategies of European Luxury Brands, Byoungho Jin (Editor), Elena Cedrola (Editor), 2017)





 “L Brands continues to deal with a Victoria’s Secret concept that is struggling to find its new identity (shifting core focus from core lingerie to ancillary categories), while they also appear to be seeing softness within their Bath & Body Works concept and international operations,” Wells Fargo wrote in a Tuesday note.




Victoria’s Secret creates strong brand equity by offering a luxurious shopping experience through store layout design and other in-store services like expert bra-fitting. The Victorian design is welcoming, but intimate at the same time, while staff are trained to always be helpful, giving the best advice for demanding customers. Providing excellent in-store experiences for their clients makes a purchase feel like an investment. 

The girls they choose as brand ambassadors (Angels) over time, were rising models at first, with real personalities that customers can relate to and aspire to be like at the same time. Adriana Lima, Miranda Kerr, Alessandra Ambrosio, Behati Prinsloo are all mothers and wives first, before being insanely beautiful supermodels.


Their fashion show is also something they heavily rely on for creating higher product profit margins, as some of the lingerie styles worn by the models on the catwalk inspires the merchandise sold in the stores. 


The "Scalloped Lace Bustier" (right) looks nearly identical to the one worn by Jasmine Tookes (left)
Credit: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images and Victoria's Secret
Source: https://www.thisisinsider.com/where-to-buy-victorias-secret-fashion-show-lingerie-2018-11

These elements allow VS to place their merchandise in the affordable luxury category.

Even though the Victoria’s Secret strategy of creating its own perfectly sexy universe has been highly successful, as they offered women the chance to be a part of it and experience this fantasy world full of glamour and sexiness portrayed by their “angels” (supermodels considered to be the ultimate babes), the brand is slowly losing the sympathy and loyalty of their customers as more and more women feel like the Victoria’s Secret “paradise” is actually a world of exclusivity where the idea of female beauty and sexiness is very narrow: white, slim and 6ft tall. It’s no surprise that the vast majority is starting to feel  left out, when the average woman in the UK is 5ft 5in tall and wears a size 16.
For many years Victoria’s Secret used the “supermodel” recipe for success to mass market products by taking advantage of customers' insecurities, giving them a false impression of empowerment and belongingness, instead of really empowering them by making them feel beautiful and confident in their own skin. A 2014 campaign “The perfect body” generated a lot of consumers rage and prompted a petition that demanded a change of slogan, which was signed by nearly 28000 people. Eventually the brand changed its campaign to “A body for everybody”, but the damage was already done and the public’s response predicted the body positivity trend that was already starting to trickle into the lingerie market.
In 2018 the brand’s CMO, Ed Razek tried to incorporate trending movements like feminism, body positivity and diversity into their world-famous annual fashion show, but the results were not what people expected and proved how out of step the brand is with current consumer perceptions of inclusiveness and body positivity. As US author Jill Filipovic opinionated in 2016, "putting conventionally attractive women onstage — even if those women are more racially diverse than in past years — and using them as physical representations of sex in order to sell bras isn't exactly a manifestation of the feminist dream". (Quote from: Authors: Manavis, Sarah; Source: New Statesman. 11/16/2018, Vol. 147 Issue 5445, p18-19. 2p. 1 Illustration). Recent remarks of the brand’s CMO in an interview with Vogue also stirred a lot of online backlash and reinforced the Victoria’s Secret idea of female beauty: "Does the brand think about diversity? Yes. Do we offer larger sizes? Yes," he said. "Shouldn't you have transsexuals in the show? No. No, I don't think we should. Well, why not? Because the show is a fantasy"…We attempted to do a television special for plus-sizes [in 2000]. No one had any interest in it, still don’t."

From my personal research and other underwear/lingerie brands approach to marketing, identity, logistics and supply chain, I am finding that  the two key-elements younger Generations of consumers (younger Millennials and older Gen Zedders) value most in a brand are transparency and authenticity (Jeff Fromm, Forbes, 2017).

BRANDS DOING THINGS DIFFERENTLY


Since 2016 the body-positive trend in advertising has started to influence the lingerie industry. A rising number of consumers and influencers have been demanding more inclusivity and transparency when it comes to lingerie or swimsuit advertisements and a few brands have been closely listening to these voices.

Figleaves campaign #AShapeForEveryShape featured interviews with Soleil Huscher, Laura Wells and Christine Sofie (3 role models with real bodies in comparison to the slim-build and toned up models we are used to in the lingerie campaigns) promoting body confidence and celebrating diversity.
Other brands promoting inclusivity are ASOS, Missguided and Savage X Fenty. In 2017 the giant online UK wholesaler (ASOS) featured on its website unretouched photos of models with stretch marks and acne scars, gaining media attention and consumer praise. During the same year Missguided made a similar move with its #MakeYourMark campaign, as part of their #KeepBeingYou movement, aiming to inspire young girls to love their body and embrace their flaws.


During her Savage x Fenty lingerie show as part of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) 2018, Rihanna won the crowd by promoting diversity and body-inclusivity. The models she chose to walk her show were different in every aspect: ethnicity, skin tone, size, height and age. She even featured 2 pregnant women (One of them being Sleek Woods). The show was a celebration of all women and the very first of its kind. Bras are available in UK sizes 32A to 44DD, while other products come in sizes XS to 3XL.

Even though Agent Provocateur’s new underwear label “Les Boys Les Girls” is not that diverse in terms of sizes (XS to XL), the line is meant to be gender-fluid. This modern take made the urban and streetwear inspired label to become a go-to for younger Millennials and older Gen Zedders who love and appreciate the freedom of expression.

Source: Mintel Academic
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